A Little Known Paradise


In 1941, when the Imperial Government of Japan attacked Pearl Harbor, it was Japan’s reaction to the United States flexing its power by denying the Japanese access to iron and other materials necessary for an industrial country.  The United States was mainly reacting to the Japanese invasion of China and its repeated massacres of the Chinese people, particularly the “rape of Nanking.”

In 1944, the United States undertook a very ambitious operation to retake the western Pacific islands, the Marianas, the Marshalls, New Guinea, and other territories.  Most of these islands lie within 10 degrees of the equator, and many a small atolls.  The fighting the occurred on many of these islands was so intense that to this day live ordinance is still washing up on the shores.

In the early 1980s I had the good fortunate to work on one of those island atolls, Kwajalein which is a part of the Marshall Islands.  Kwajalein itself, though tiny, endured nearly a week of intense fighting before the U.S. won.  To this day a tank from the battle still sits where it became immobilized on a coral reef as-well-as a number of Japanese ships that were sunk in the Kwajalein Atoll lagoon.

kwajalein

kwaj

The runway in the picture above is about 1.2 miles long, to give you an idea of how small this, the largest in the atoll, is.

Kwajalein is the world’s largest atoll.  The maps above will give you an idea of its location in the Pacific and a map of the islands of the Kwajalein Atoll itself.  The picture is of the main island of Kwajalein, also known as Kwajalein, that sits a the bottom of the atoll.  It is also called the most remote inhabited place on earth.  That is because access to it is somewhat limited.  The islands tend to be under 1 mile in length and where most large jets require at least that for take-off, you must take a small aircraft to get there.  The Marshall Islands sit 2400 miles west south west of Honolulu and about an equal distance from Australia.

roi

In this picture of Roi-Namur the runway is 4000 feet long, and the island, as it lays along the reef, only about 1.2 miles long.

This picture above is off the island Roi-Namur which sits at the very top of the atoll and where I worked while there.  On the island of Roi-Namur sit two radars which track both near-earth and deep space satellites.  I was involved in the near-earth tracking station known at Altair.

roi beach

This picture is of the beach on Roi-Namur.  It is typical of the beaches to be found on the lagoon side of the atoll.  The lagoon is a relatively shallow portion of an atoll that sits between the islands.  An atoll is the coral top of an ancient volcano.  This being true, the ocean side of the atoll represents the mountain side which typically drop off many thousands of feet into the depths of the ocean around it.

The temperature varies between 76 and 85 on any given day year-round.  The water temperature sits at about 80 year-round too.  The island is basically immune from typhoons and other heavy wind storms because of its close proximity to the equator. While the storms may form near-by they move northward away from the islands well before the gain much force.  It is also nearly immune from Tsunamis because it lacks the gradual beach incline needed to concentrate the energy of the Tsunami into a large wave.  If a tsunami were to hit the island it would flow past it relatively unnoticed.

Many people for the U.S. have gone snorkeling on the coral reefs of the Caribbean and Hawaii.  But the coral of those places pale in comparison to the relatively virgin reefs of the western-Pacific atolls.  Although the Marshall, Solomon, and Caroline island groups each have plenty of resorts, they are so out-of-the-way that few people ever consider them.

The estimated population of the entire Marshall Islands in 2010 is only about 70,000 permanent residents spread among 29 separate atolls and another 5 individual islands.  Most of the islands do not allow automobiles.  The islands are all so small that travel on any single island is reserved to foot traffic.

The Marshallese people are  not Polynesian but Micronesian, a subtle but important distinction.  They settled the islands some 4000 years ago but their origin is unknown.  Today’s Marshallese are, unfortunately, almost entirely dependent upon the United States for their existence.  Since the 19th century they have been subjected to Dutch, German, and Japanese rule so that by the time World War II ended they no longer had the survival skills of their ancestors.  But they are a very friendly people who ask for little and are more than willing to give much.

The Kwajalein Atoll is a veritable aquarium of strange and exotic sea creatures.  The fish alone rival any that can be seen in the finest of aquariums.  There many types of rare and beautiful cowries, snail-like mollusks, hermit crabs, and even lobsters.  While snorkeling is was within arm’s reach of a large yellow-fin tuna.

cowrie

The picture above is of cowries native to the atoll.  Some, the tiger cowrie in particular, can fetch a hefty price on the open market.

Because of the nature of its business, defense, Kwajalein is not open to the public but other atolls in the Marshall Islands are and are equally as beautiful.  Majuro is such an island and an example of its beaches is below.

majuro

Relative to almost anywhere else in the world one can visit, the Marshall Islands may well be among the most pristine.  I cannot recommend them highly enough, particularly those of you who are truly tired of the crowded usual tourist destinations.

It Is Another Day in Paradise


Tomorrow is my birthday.  I will be 63.  I really do not like this getting older, but what then are the alternatives?  There is one really good thing about getting older, your perspective improves greatly.

When I was young, a teenager and early 20s, I felt the constant desire to be on the move.  I constantly desired to be going somewhere, doing something, seeing things.  For the most part that was a good thing.  I followed through on those desires and saw a lot of the world as it was.  I experienced many countries and many different people.  But the problem with youth is an almost complete lack of perspective.

When I was young I thought the town I grew up in was hopelessly boring.  It never occurred to me that even if that were true, and it was, that might actually be a good thing and something to be taken advantage of.  Boston attracted me but I never got further than the very entertainment areas.  That sort of visiting other places did not follow me as the years went on, fortunately.  One of the foolish feelings of youth is a sort of immortality, death is far away and not to be concerned with.  Because of that feeling I did not fear wandering into some of the more suspect areas of foreign cities without a worry in the world.  Nothing ever happened to me, fortunately, and the experiences did offer me views of life as it exists on many different levels.

The years passed and my traveling slowed down.  I slowed down too.  Slowing down, it turns out, is an extremely good thing.  People should do it more often!  It gave me the opportunity to consider everything I had done, everywhere I had been, everyone I had ever encountered.  No, I do not have a perfect memory for all my travels.  But I do remember large portions of them.  They allow me to smile.

A lot of places I have visited I would not want to live.  Not because they were dirty or ugly, unfriendly or poor, but because my spirit would  be too confined, too restricted, too limited.  Beirut is an absolutely wonderful city with extremely friendly people but it is not a place I could live for very long.  Part of the attraction to such a city is its being exotic but that is the very reason it would not be good for me.  It exists outside my comfort zone.

What does all of this have to do with paradise?  Quite simply, paradise is where you find it.  I cannot say I am very enamoured with where I am living right now but I am not far removed from much beauty and pleasure either.  I can get there quite easily by putting myself out just a little bit.

My cat is a bit of paradise too.  She is perfect, graceful, soft, beautiful.  She likes me just as I am and I her.  Consider what a gift it is to have an animal that does not mind co-existing with humans.  Most animals find us unbearable.  We have trespassed into what was formerly entirely theirs but there is nothing they can do about it.  There is a red-tailed hawk which nests on the side of a building very close to here.  From my 14th floor vantage point I can see her soaring effortlessly on the currents of air.  Such beauty is surely reserved for paradise, is it not?

Spring will be on us in a few days.  The leaves coming into bloom has always been a wonderous sight.  They emerge, as if by magic, for what looks to be dead sticks, first into flowers and then into leaves.  How did nature figure out how to do such a thing?

We will soon enter into the season of thunderstorms.  I have always called them nature’s light show.  When I lived in El Paso, I liked to go up the side of the Franklin Mountains and watch the thunderstorms as they moved across the desert below.  Even here in Cambridge, my window on the world allow me a great view of the magnificent bolts of lightning as the streak through the clouds to the earth below.

Only in paradise can you get entertainment daily and it costs nothing save the time you take to enjoy it.  While walking in the rain recently with a friend I commented on how I love a rainy day.  The rain, water of course, is one of the basics of life.  How can you possibly dislike something that is responsible for your very being?

Some years ago I was calling a friend’s house and I would frequently get his answering machine.  His message started “It’s another glorious day in paradise.”  At first I found his message totally annoying.  But that was only because I had not taken the time to consider the truthfulness of it.  Now I have and I invite everyone to consider it as well.  We do live in paradise.  It is here for us to enjoy.  But the only way to enjoy it is to recognize it.  I submit that paradise is all around us.  Do not look any further.  It has found you and now you need to find it.

Problems With Living in Paradise


I am certain some of you are saying, “how can living in paradise be a problem?”  That is a most reasonable question, however it depends upon your definition of paradise.  Milton spoke of “Paradise Lost” but his was of a religious philosophical gist.  F. Scott Fitzgerald’s first novel was “This Side of Paradise” but his paradise was a Fitzgerald commentary on wealth and society in the early 1920s.  Most people think of paradise as being a tropical resort where it is sunny and 80 all day.

One such “paradise” is, of course, Hawaii.  I lived in Hawaii from 1978 – 1979.  The day I arrived in Hawaii I remember the scent of gardenia’s filling the air.  I had had no previous experience which said to me I was in a tropical paradise to be sure.  I was there to join the 25th Infantry Division of the U.S. Army, my last stop in my army career.  I was definitely not there for a vacation but I was there for an extended period which allowed me to gain a good feel for living there.

If there was something to be seen on Oahu, I saw it.  I went everywhere.  I also enjoyed days on end at Waikiki, sunning myself to a darkness I have had neither both nor since.  I have always loved the beach and took full advantage of the beaches during my time there.  There are a lot more beaches in Hawaii than Waikiki and I went to many of them.  I did have one mishap however.  I went to the beach at Makaha one day and there was a particularly severe undertow that day.  The beach did not, and still does not, have a life guard or anyone who monitor’s the conditions there.  You find out what is going on by going into the water.  I went into the water and was only a few feet out before I found just how bad the undertow was.  I could not have been more than 15 feet from shore but it took all my strength to return to shore.

I also had the good fortune to visit the “Big Island” of Hawaii while I was there.  This island surprises the uninformed.  It literally has three different climates on this one island.  The volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea each rise close to 14,000 feet above sea level.  If you leave Kona and head up the mountains you go from the tropics to the temperate climate to a cold climate en route.  If you visit the mountains during the winter season you will actually find them snow-covered.  Mona Loa has a ski tow to its peak.  And of course being there you get to see one of the world’s most active volcanos, Kilauea.

Those are many, but not all, of Hawaii’s wonderful parts.  But I am from a place that is over 5000 miles removed from Hawaii and has lots of cold weather and only about 2 months of hot weather.  Two years in Hawaii and I was ready to get back to the “mainland.”  I had, what is euphemistically called over there, “rock fever.”  The island of Oahu, like any island is limited in how far you can go north to south and east to west.  Oahu is 44 miles long and 30 miles wide at its extremes.  LA County is 4083 square miles and Oahu is 1320 square miles, or about 1/3 the size of LA County.  For those of us who are used to being able to go more than 40 miles in any one direction, Hawaii leaves us a bit wanting.

Honolulu is a wonderful city.  There is much to do there, of course.  But Honolulu is a city of 905,000 inhabitants.  Boston, where I am from, has over 2.5 million in its metro area.  But even more, it offers more educational institutions, more libraries, more museums, among many other things.

What I am getting at is, Boston is my paradise.  I was born here, grew up here, as did my parents and many generations of my family before.  This is home and I love it, even if I do want to trade in some of its winter weather for some of Hawaii’s winter weather.  I think for most of us, paradise is what we call home, where we have our loved ones, where we are most comfortable.  Paradise is truly a state of mind and not a place.  I enjoy paradise whenever I see my daughters, or enjoy a day out with my grandson, or hold my granddaughter.  Paradise is the company of my friends.  Paradise is being able to put a smile on someone’s face.

Let me assure you, Hawaii is a paradise in its own rite.  It is a paradise you can visit but not live in for most of us.  But even being in Hawaii and calling it paradise is just a momentary reflection on what is going on around us and how we feel.  Trust me, I have had many a good meal with good friends or family, and thought I was in paradise.